Hi,
folding stock...look hier
Gruß Michel
I know, you inspired me to create and share a 3d printed alternative. I already shared the part on the forum. Great job!
- Folding Stock adaptor for Junxing Drakon or FMA Supersonic crossbows
- Quiver for Junxing Drakon or FMA Supersonic crossbows - 8 bolts
- AstigmaFix for Red Dot system - Junxing Drakon or FMA Supersonic crossbows
https://cults3d.com/de/benutzer/halunke/3d-modelle
What a collection! Thanks!
Too bad the designer does not seem to be a member here.
I'll try his open sight to make the Drakon even more compact.
With a folding stock that should be easily carried and RTG in a small backpack.
After how many shots? Or... after how much beer?
My first one is still absolutely ok, and I've already gotten the right file for the 3D printer to print supplies.
You can also get the hold-down device individually as a spare part for €5 .
Please share the file if possible (not a bought item). It would be helpful for others.
AstigmaFix for Junxing Drakon or FMA Supersonic crossbows
Can't believe it works... 
Feel free to try, it does limit FOV, but using 2 eyes is something... from another world.
AstigmaFix for JunXing Drakon / FMA Supersonic or any similar red dot aiming system.
This is a simple clip-on, but it still needs some kind of dual sided tape to secure it in place.
Mainly this is a peephole for you too look through so it reduces the amount of glare it goes to your eyes.
Recommended color: Black
It clips on the back of the standard red dot system.
Finished the model, added photos (from testing version).
…as at that distance basically the tiny red dot covers the target basically, it's all luck from there on.
Then you should consider changing your RedDot, most cheap RedDots have a 3 MoA Dot which is 8,7 cm at 100 Meters, at 15 Meters its 1,3 cm.
I really can't see that far, might be just my eyes, I have astigmatism and basically I see a star... 
Lowering the brightness helps but still not enough.
Ignore then my comment, I don't have anyone to compare.
EDIT: You actually made me think and I searched and found this article, and as it says, I really find the green one on the lowest brightness the best... so indeed it's my eyes.
I know I was pretty good with clasic scope, I might give that a chance now that I think about it.
Drakon can get a grouping of 15 cm at 15m if you're holding it steady quite easily with the included red dot, it could do better probably with a magnifying scope, as at that distance basically the tiny red dot covers the target basically, it's all luck from there on.
I never fired the crossbow at more than 15m as it seems beyond what you can consider accurate without a scope IMHO.
For plinking it seems accurate enough.
OT: Behold now, Chinese broadheads
Look good to me, considering their purpose. I need to say I never want to use them for hunting, just to have them, "just in case", for home defense.
Some feedback about the 3D printed adapter.
There are some high stress points especially in the male adapter.
The blue one that I posted pictures of, holds together great, I even tried to break it apart on purpose just to test it's strength! No issues for now, printed at 200deg - Anycubic PLA Blue.
I printed another one with Devil Design Navy Blue, and well it simply snaps without too much force so it's clearly not up to the task and it's 25% more expensive... Suggestions after I closely inspected this weaker material and the failure points:
- raise the extruding temperature to220 failed210 as it's clear that layer adhesion is a problem with this material.
- print themale adapterboth on the side so the strength is better distributed across the layers.
- Print with 100% infill.
!! Even if the print looks excellent it might fail so buying it ... well it might be money thrown out the window !!
PS: Sorry for spamming the thread, not my intention.
Drakon with half moon nocks, but I'm not too eager. I'll probably mount it, but shooting it is another story.
I'll read through all the posts from the thread you indicated first, thank you.
I finished my first Dyneema Pro 3mm string following exactly the instructions, but the string is 1 cm shorter. I'm really reluctant in trying it in my crossbow, but, I must say it seems and feels really good.
Some testing is clearly required, but I'm thinking of getting it closer to the final dimensions before ever "thinking" of trying it.
Again I'm aware of the risks but I have to try it. I have to try it... 🤣
Time required: 5 minutes.
You are, sir, the very definition of someone who takes all the joy out of developing something. My answer is quite a strong NO!
I also posted the source file, feel free to improve it.
Edit: Added the promised improvements.
Here is how the folding stock adapter looks now compared to the initial version.
I still found some optimisations that will add shortly to the model but the current one is 100% working.
I'll add an alternative stock fastening using a central bolt, a nut hole so it sits flush to the top surface and a horizontal stabilizer.
These are only optimisations that I implemented by hand, look closely at the photos posted.
NOTE: This is not military grade, the connection wobbles a little, but in a crossbow is not as important as a gun. It's not rock solid when in use! I improved this a lot by gluing some rubber on the inside to make the connection tighter.
Probably this can be improved a little but I don't want to play with the model too much as usually my printer produces "tighter prints". If I would use my usual tolerances, probably most printers won't handle it too good and you'll need to file it by hand.
I'll add a milimeter on the latch, as I noticed that you don't need to be fully engaged to stick so basically it can't hurt.
Also the lateral screw for the stock, use it on the outside (not as in the photos) as your fingers will suffer otherwise when folding.
Eastern Europe, Romania, I read the forum using Google translate.
It's a hobby for me, not a bussiness, I'm afraid shipping is prohibitive for such small items.
Also I've got a warning that selling is against forum rules on my first post (Got 2 Drakons)
However, everything I posted is free, probably you can find someone with a 3D printer locally.
BTW, I uploaded a new version, hopefully I fixed everything this time. I rounded everything and cut the walls in half, should be enough it's not a machine gun.
I just completed my first print, it has a couple of errors, all easy fixable with a bit of drilling and a saw, please stay tuned for the fixed version.
For example it folds vertically 😂.
I also find it a bit bulky, kind of unnecessary for a pistol crossbow so I'll slim it down a little more.
Instructions will be updated too.
But... It works kind of great, really happy with the result for the first try. Everything just works and it has a satisfying click when locked into place. 
Printing one of the test pieces... it will take a few hours to test. Looks ok for now.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5874165
Use it at your own pleasure, maybe you might want to wait for confirmation, as the first print is still to complete.
I just realised a spacer "might be needed" to use original screw. I'll add it after print is finished, it will take 10h plus.
I dissasembeld it and it seems to be:
Tube into stock length - 22mm
notch 5x5mm
Outer tube 28.5mm
Inner tube 22mm
I'll go with option 2, prepare a part, let's see how it goes.
Alles anzeigenGood evening everyone,
tinkered today...yesterday. Something like that makes more sense to me personally than a magazine.
Something to fold.
Greeting Michel
Hi,
I'm lacking a caliper to be able to take the following measurements, but I'm planning to either:
- cut the shaft and modify this adapter: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3084027/files
basically remove the thread and make it smooth on the inside, and simply gluing it place - with a lateral screw for extra safety.
- Print a custom part that is added to the basic shaft (an adapter), It's not really clear to me, I believe this is what Michel did in the above pictures.
(I haven't disassembled the shaft yet to understand exactly what you did)
I'd need:
- Outside tube diameter
- Inside tube diameter
I can get the following but maybe it's already available:
- Length of tube that is clear in the above photos, the tube that enters the stock
- A photo of how the tube is initially attached to the stock (I believe you drilled it in the first photo)
- Whatever extra measurements and info that could help.
Visually, without any dissasemby I think the tube is attached with a very large screw, M6 maybe? from the tube to the receiver side.
Doing this will enable me to store it and carry it in one piece, no disassembly needed every time I take it out!
Actual photos.
Finally tested the front holder with 5.8mm holes. Perfect!
The holder holes expand a little and "grabs the arrows". Probably in time it needs to be reprinted but for now it holds very, very well.
Why don't you use the design I posted, it holds 6 field points with the original handguard or 8 if you use a rail front holder (Drakon only) in a much slimmer way, very close to the main body of the crossbow. Designed primarily for the Drakon, I need some feedback on the front holder from SUSO users if I am to adjust it for max compatibility.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5806091
Only disadvantage I see is that it can not hold broadheads but storing them so close to the cables is not a good ideea anyway. Would use the T style attachments for that to store them in front of the crossbow.
I'll update the SUSO model per the original poster's specification (due to lack of feedback) so stay tuned.
NOTE: V20 Up, now with correct settings for Suso.
I bought also BCY B55 from which I can make a traditional string anyway.
I was really excited about using Dyneema Pro, and if I remember well the R9 is 120lbs? Vs Drakon's 90lbs.
He also uses a much more powerful crossbow which I don't remember it's name right now.
I strictly want to understand why it can be used on a recurve and not on a low power compound.
dont do kanirope on compounds,
Why? I think Joerg uses a an EK R9 which is a recurve, but don't remember anything about a warning about compounds?
About broadhead quality, I really don't care, probably I'll make my 12 Arrows and be done with them.
